That must be it - the first pressing of the olives for extra virgin, as I was sure there was a 'first' something.

Interesting this definition is slightly different from that in the article, a different epistemology: The first pressing would require trust (however arrived at) in a supply chain to declare, the second measuring the resulting product (positivist trust by measurement); the first encouraging diversity (artisanry?) perhaps over a less diverse (more verifiable?) final product with the second.

Thanks for your answer. And to the several other commenters.