You are right about the expensive varieties, which I buy sporadically, but I do not use olive oil for flavoring, but as actual food (it typically provides around two thirds of my daily intake of fat, or even more in the days with increased physical work that requires a higher energy intake).

So using a better olive oil would not make me reduce the amount that I eat, therefore I choose the cheapest EVOO most of the time (which is still quite good, even if with a less intense flavor; since I use great amounts in cooking, the flavor is strong enough anyway).