I've played with `meow`, a Kakoune-like modal editing system for Emacs, but on desktop, I've never really had enough motivation to stick with it. It might actually make more sense for mobile.

The menus have all you need. It's not ideal, of course, but it's enough to get you going. Otherwise you can remap the menu and toolbar to your needs.

There are several developer oriented keyboards. I found the Unexpected Keyboard quite good.

This is my Unexpected layout:

  <?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
  <keyboard bottom_row="false" name="Emacs-rev1" script="latin">
    <row>
      <key c="q" sw="1" nw="loc esc"/>
      <key c="w" sw="2" nw="~" ne="\@"/>
      <key c="e" sw="3" nw="!" ne="\#" se="loc €"/>
      <key c="r" sw="4" ne="$"/>
      <key c="t" sw="5" ne="%"/>
      <key c="y" sw="6" ne="^"/>
      <key c="u" sw="7" ne="&amp;"/>
      <key c="i" sw="8" ne="\*"/>
      <key c="o" sw="9" ne="("/>
      <key c="p" sw="0" ne=")"/>
    </row>
    <row>
      <key shift="0.4" c="a" nw="loc tab" ne="`"/>
      <key c="s" ne="loc §" sw="loc ß"/>
      <key c="d"/>
      <key c="f"/>
      <key c="g" ne="-" sw="_"/>
      <key c="h" ne="=" sw="+"/>
      <key c="j" ne="}" nw="{"/>
      <key c="k" nw="[" ne="]"/>
      <key c="l" nw="|" ne="\\"/>
    </row>
    <row>
      <key width="1.5" c="shift" ne="loc capslock"/>
      <key c="z"/>
      <key c="x" ne="loc †"/>
      <key c="c" sw="&lt;"   ne="."/>
      <key c="v" sw="&gt;"   ne=","/>
      <key c="b" sw="\?"     ne="/"/>
      <key c="n" sw=":"      ne=";"/>
      <key c="m" ne="&quot;" nw="'"/>
      <key width="1.5" c="backspace" ne="delete"/>
    </row>
    <row height="0.95">
      <key width="1.7" key0="ctrl" key1="loc switch_greekmath" key2="loc meta" key3="loc switch_clipboard" key4="switch_numeric"/>
      <key width="1.7" key0="alt" key1="loc change_method" key2="fn" key3="switch_emoji" key4="config"/>
      <key width="3.5" key0="space" key7="loc home" key8="loc end"/>
      <key width="1.6" key0="loc compose" key7="up" key6="right" key5="left" key8="down" key1="loc page_up" key3="loc page_down"/>
      <key width="1.5" key0="enter" key1="loc voice_typing" key2="action"/>
    </row>
  </keyboard>